Classic Carl
For the owner who won't accept water in the loom, scratches in the alloy, or lifted decals. We don't ruin original cars.
For the owner who won't accept water in the loom, scratches in the alloy, or lifted decals. We don't ruin original cars.
You bought the car because of the markings, the patina, the original details. The last thing you want is a detailer who pressure-washes the loom and softens the rubber, or a sandblaster who scores the polished alloy. The trouble is most cleaning options were built for daily drivers — fast, cheap, and mildly destructive. Concours preparation needs a different toolset entirely. Dry ice cleaning is one of the only methods that lifts decades of grime off original surfaces while leaving factory paint codes, build tags, period decals, and serial numbers exactly where they were stamped — visible, intact, and provenance-grade. We document every job. We test every sensitive surface. We never push pressure where pressure isn't safe.
Pain points we hear most
- Pressure washing introduces water into ECU, distributor, sensors and connectors — issues show up months later
- Sandblasting scores polished aluminium and ruins original textures
- Chemical degreasers stain decals, dry rubber, leave streaking on plastic loom covers
- Most "concours detailers" don't know what they don't know about dry ice safety
- Show season deadlines mean you can't afford a do-over
What you're looking for
- Provable expertise on sensitive substrates (decals, polished alloy, original paint)
- Per-vehicle pre-work documentation (you want to see what's being preserved)
- Sample-area testing on inconspicuous surfaces before full coverage
- Calibrated pressure per surface — not one-size-fits-all
- Photo-record handover suitable for car file / pre-sale provenance
What customers like you ask before they book
Will it lift my original decals?
No — we tune pressure for delicate areas. Original factory decals, VIN plates, build tags, paint codes and serial markings stay intact. We pre-photograph every marking and test on inconspicuous areas first.
How is this safer than steam cleaning?
Steam introduces water into connectors, looms and sealed cavities — water that takes weeks to fully migrate out, sometimes causing intermittent electrical faults months later. Dry ice is 100% dry and sublimates on impact.
Is it cheaper to just sand and respray?
For a daily driver, maybe. For a numbers-matching classic, sanding away original paint codes, factory texture and decals destroys the very thing that makes it valuable. Cleaning costs a fraction of restoration — and preserves provenance.
What's the difference between this and a 'detail'?
Detailing chemistries clean the surface; dry ice cleans into the surface. Hard-to-reach geometries (loom backs, between fins, behind bracketry) get the same attention as visible surfaces.
Why customers in your situation choose us
- Photo-record handover for car-file documentation
- Sample-area testing before full work
- Per-surface pressure calibration
- Concours and show vehicle experience
- Insurance to $20m for high-value vehicles
Common triggers — when Classic types typically book
- Show season prep
- Concours competition
- Pre-sale provenance documentation
- Restoration project commencement
- Pre-purchase inspection clean-up
Resources matched to Classic
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Cost Calculator
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$349 Voucher
New customers — your first concours-grade engine bay clean from $349.
Services Classic typically books
Engine Bay Cleaning
Restore your engine bay to a factory-finish look — without water, chemicals, or tear-down.
Undercarriage Cleaning
Strip off years of road tar, oil and underbody grime without lifting the body.
Full-Vehicle Restoration
A complete dry ice clean of the engine, underbody, body cavities and interior — restoration-grade.
Wheels & Wheel Wells
Brake dust, tar and stubborn grime — gone, without acid or harsh wheel cleaners.
Talk to us
Premium auto enthusiast / restorer customers typically get a fixed quote within 24 hours of reaching out. Tell us about your specific situation.
- Tailored proposal for your specific use case
- Insurance certificates and procedure documents on request
- References from comparable customers available under NDA
Classic's FAQs
How does dry ice compare to steam in an engine bay?
Dry ice is 100% dry. Steam introduces water into connectors and looms. For original cars, dry ice is the only safe option — water-related faults often surface weeks after a steam clean and can mimic genuine electrical failures.
Will my original VIN tag and build plate stay legible?
Yes. We pre-photograph every original marking, mask the most fragile, and use lower pressure (typically 70–90 PSI) for areas with original stampings or decals.
Can you work on body-off rotisserie restorations?
Yes. Body-off cleans are where dry ice shines — we can take the chassis back to a paint-ready state without abrasive damage in 1–2 days versus weeks of chemical stripping.
Do you handle pre-sale documentation?
Yes. Every concours-grade job gets a photo log suitable for the car file — useful for resale provenance and show paperwork.
What does a typical concours engine bay cost?
Most concours engine bays land $1,200–$2,500 depending on vehicle complexity, decal preservation requirements and add-ons (hand polish, plastic dressing). Use our calculator for postcode-specific pricing.
Ready when you are, Classic.
Tell us what you need cleaned. We come back with a fixed quote within 24 hours — and an exact estimate range while you wait.
Or talk to us directly
- 1300 000 000
- hello@dryiceblasters.com.au
- Mon–Fri 7am–6pm · Sat 8am–2pm · Sun by appointment